tips for reverse applique while quilting

After learning the quick and easy reverse applique method from this tutorial that Rikka from Ricochet and Away! wrote, I got to pondering about how to implement my quilted pillow. 

Reverse Applique - the Ricochet Method =)

I've quilted before, and I've quilted with applique before, but I haven't ever reverse appliqued, nor have I tried reverse applique while quilting! As a result, I did some online reading, a bit of testing, and a lot of thinking. Here are my thoughts so far:

How to deal with the reverse applique's raw fabric edges

Option 1: do nothing

Deal with it, accept it, embrace the fraying! Use a tiny stitch (using a straight-stitch foot or a free motion foot) like Rikka recommended and hope that it'll hold when washed and through time. If you plan on hand-stitching around your reverse applique, I'm not sure this is possible, because you probably want your stitches to be larger so they can be seen proudly from afar! 

Option 2: non-fraying fabric

Use a "fabric" that does not fray such as felt, plastic-like fabrics, leather, jersey, fake fur, or fleece. Except for the last three, and maybe felt to some extent, the rest are obviously not happening on a pillow. These ideas might be pretty, though, when used on other types of projects such as wallets, bags, baby room decorations such as light fixtures, etc:

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By the way, if you haven't heard of Natalie Chanin's books (Alabama Stitch Book, Alabama Studio Style) you really should take a look at her hand-made jersey applique clothes:

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Option 3: satin / zigzag stitch

Use a machine embroidered satin stitch, or another edge-binding machine stitch. I think you need to be very skilled sewing around curves, or use an applique shape with straight edges only.

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If you want to try this, check out the tutorial here. 

Here's another cool video tutorial. Note that she has a special foot that "hovers" and comes down on the fabric only when the needle goes down. Also, I bet it takes a bit of practice:

Option 4: no raw edges

Press the raw edges under like "traditional" applique methods. This requires some kind of paper (freezer paper or some improvisation) so that your folded over edges will be smooth and not choppy. I am disinclined to try this method - it sounds tedious and not so much fun, and it may look a bit old-fashioned.

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Option 5: fusible interfacing / webbing

Press fusible interfacing (or webbing) onto the whole piece(s) of fabric that you plan on cutting. Be sure to use a thin interfacing that will leave the fabric soft and easy to sew through rather than making the fabric thick, heavy, or crisp. 

Here are two very pretty and good tutorials of regular applique (not reverse applique) using the raw edge applique method: 

Sew, Mama, Sew! Summer Sewing - Simple Machine Applique tutorial

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a cuppa and a catchup - 'time for tea' mug rug tutorial

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Option 6: fusible interfacing on the borders only

Press fusible interfacing only onto the borders of the reverse applique design. This means you trace the design onto the fusible interfacing, then cut around it to create a border, and then press that onto the fabric. This might be tedious, it might be problematic (maybe the "ridge" of fusible interfacing border will show through), and it might not be necessary if the fabric pieces are small - in such a case you can just press the fusible interfacing onto the whole fabric piece.

Conclusion

I have a vague feeling that I'm going to be hand-stitching my applique / reverse applique. So I think that for me the best way to go would be Option 5 (raw edge applique with fusible interfacing / webbing). I'm also inclined to try zigzag stitching over the edges, as well as the traditional method.

Can you think of a better way? 

Which method would you like to try? 

Combining reverse applique and quilting

The thing about quilting is that you need to stitch your seams on top of a layer of batting that is sandwiched between two (or more) pieces of fabric. This is what gives the puffy "quilted" effect. Now, how to combine that with reverse applique?

Rikka said that if we accidentally cut into too many fabric layers, then we "do not pass go and do not collect $200". What happens if I work on my fully sized pillow front, that has the batting sandwiched in it, and make a hole while reverse applique-ing? This will not end well for me or for my pillow front.

If we don't want to risk such a catastrophe, we need to do one of the following:

1. Cut the fabric (reverse applique design) before putting the quilt sandwich together and stitching it, or
2. Somehow quilt each square separately according to the reverse applique design and then cut out the excess fabric, so if we mess one square up by cutting too much, we will not mess up the whole quilt and we'll only re-do one square.

I think I'll try cutting the fabric (reverse applique design) before putting the quilt sandwich together and stitching it.

How about you?

Congrats if you read this far!!
I hope you found this helpful!