fitting books - initial review

Most fitting books require the help of a "buddy", who would measure you and in addition would trace a "body outline" of you - your life-sized outline on a big piece of paper, with key reference points marked on it (shoulder, waist, knee, etc). This body outline helps you analyze your body in order to compare it with the "standard". For example, you may have high/low waist, sloping shoulders, etc. From these differences from the standard you conclude which pattern changes need to be applied.

I have not yet captured a measuring buddy (I intend to!), so in the meantime I've only looked through the books for advice. For example, if you see wrinkles (excess fabric) or pulls (too little fabric), depending on where they appear, you can understand what corrections need to be made.

I will later on give my reviews of the books after I've actually applied their instructions exactly. For now here is my opinion:

I cannot say which is better:

• Pattern Fitting with Confidence by Nancy Zieman
• The Perfect Fit - The Classic Guide to Altering Patterns

 

Nancy's book is very nicely edited and very clear. It tells you to take several measurements and to make charts, and from these charts you can draw conclusions. It shows you the "pivot and slide" technique for altering the actual pattern contours, which is a really good technique. It tells you which pattern size to choose (not as simple as you might think!). It tells you how to alter shirts, skirts and pants, depending on the way you differ from the standard. And in the end it tells you how to fine-tune the fit and apply your corrections back to the pattern.

The second book, "The Perfect Fit", is a reprint of a Singer Library book. It is very organized, showing photos of ill-fitting garments and how to correct them. It tells you to draw a body outline in order to understand what figure quirks you have. It covers shirts, skirts and pants as well.

I really can't choose between the two. So far, I've consulted them both and they're both good.

I also have these two books:

• Fit for Real People
• Pants for Real People

 

Both of these books are by Pati Palmer and Marta Alto. They are good books but I prefer the previously mentioned books (Nancy and Singer) and here's why:

• "Fit for Real People" does not cover pants. You need to get "Pants for Real People" as well in order to cover shirts, skirts and pants.
• Both of these books feature women with figures that differ from the "standard". Many of the women are very much overweight or have a very mature figure. In the pants fitting book, I found no figure that remotely resembles mine. It makes me wonder how relevant it is for my figure, and it makes it hard for me to "learn" from the photos.
• When reading "Fit for Real People", you are frequently directed to other pages, and you find yourself moving back and forth in the book - the topic is difficult enough and I found this distracting, inconvenient and confusing. 
• "Fit for Real People" tells you to try on the pattern tissue. I tried that and it was a nightmare. Pinning the delicate tissue and putting it on... I didn't like it and couldn't work like that. I need a method that I can apply alone, without bugging my friends for help every time.
• Don't get me wrong - these are good books packed with valuable information. But the first two books I mentioned are more organized and concise.

Once I find someone to draw my outline and help me follow all the steps I'll write another review of Nancy's book and the Singer book. 

I hope after a few times using the techniques I will find I am making the same fitting changes every time and there will be less unpleasant surprises. What a lovely faraway dream! :-)